Hats off! How Frank Horvat changed fashion photography - in pictures

The Italian-born photographer took models out of the studio and shot them in inventive locations, as a new exhibition at Photo London 2022 shows

Main image: Groundbreaking … Givenchy Hat B, for Jardin des Modes, Paris, 1958. Photograph: Frank Horvat

  • Anna Karina at Les Halles, Paris, 1959: for Jours de France

    A homage to Frank Horvat, curated by his daughter Fiammetta Horvat, is at Photo London 2022, Somerset House, 12-15 May. A major retrospective of his work opens in June at the Jeu de Paume, in Tours, France. All photographs: Frank Horvat
    1959, Paris, France, for Jours de France, Anna Karina at Les Halles

  • Model with steam, New York, 1961: for Harpers Bazaar

    Born in Abbazia, Italy (now Opatija, Croatia), in 1928, Horvat studied art in Milan, worked in advertising and then became a freelance photographer, travelling to India and Pakistan
    1961, New York USA, for HB, model with steam (c)

  • Wedding gown on bus, Paris, 1961: for British Vogue

    In 1950, on his first trip to Paris, Horvat met Henri Cartier-Bresson and Robert Capa, who would influence his naturalistic style
    1961, Paris, France, for British Vogue, wedding gown on bus

  • Deborah Dixon on the steps of Piazza di Spagna, Rome, 1962: for Harper’s Bazaar

    In the mid-50s Horvat worked for Life and Picture Post magazines in London. Then, in 1955, he moved to Paris and worked as a fashion photographer with his own reportage style, taking his models out on location, using natural lighting and 35mm cameras
    1962, Roma, Italy, for HB, italian high fashion with Deborah Dixon on the steps of Piazza di Spagna

  • Simone d’Aillencourt and Horvat’s son Michel, Les Invalides, Paris, 1958: for Le Jardin des Modes

    Horvat travelled between Paris, London and New York, working for Le Jardin des Modes, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar
    1958, Paris, France, for Jardin des Modes, Simone d’Aillencourt and Michel Horvat, Les Invalides

  • Place Pigalle, bar scene, 1956, Paris

    The Photo London exhibition also features Horvat’s images of Parisian cabarets, where he finds poetry in the seedy nightlife of the city
    1956, Paris, France, Place Pigalle, bar scene

  • Le Sphinx, 1956, Paris

    Horvat discussed this image of a Parisian nightclub in the Guardian’s My Best Shot feature series
    1956, Paris, France, Le Sphinx

  • Coco Chanel, watching her fashion show, Paris, 1958

    Horvat’s career spanned more than 70 years and he is credited for changing the style of French fashion photography
    1958, Paris, France, Coco Chanel, fashion designer, watching her fashion show

  • Givenchy Hat, Paris, 1958: for Le Jardin des Modes

    Horvat was acclaimed for continually experimenting and adapting to new technologies
    1958, Paris, France, for Jardin des Modes, Givenchy Hat
Topics